ANCHOVY - HOLLANDAISE -- Flavor hollandaise with chopped anchovies or paste.

AURORE -- Add tomato paste and butter to basic white sauce, just before serving.

BASIC BROWN -- Sauté diced ham, onions and carrots in butter, add beef stock, bay leaf and thyme. Simmer for an hour, uncovered, then add chopped tomato or tomato paste and simmer another 30 minutes. Strain. To thicken, reduce or gradually add little balls made of flour and butter (Beurre manie.)

BEARNAISE -- Combine chopped scallions and tarragon with a small quantity of white wine, reduce drastically and add to hollandaise.

BÉCHAMEL (Basic white sauce) -- Melt butter, add an equal amount of flour and cook briefly. Add heated milk, cook and stir until it thickens. Add more milk if too thick., more flour and butter if too thin.

BLACK BUTTER -- (Buerre Noir) Brown butter cooked until it is dark brown.

BORDELAISE -- To basic brown sauce., add butter-sauteed scallions or shallots, and a robust red wine that has been reduced by half,

BROWN BUTTER (Beurre Noisette) Cook butter slowly, stirring until it smells nutty and turns light brown. Stir in a little lemon juice or white wine vinegar, season and serve immediately.

CAPER -- Add capers to taste to basic white sauce.

CHEESE SAUCE -- Add heavy cream and grated Parmesan, Gruyere, or cheddar to basic white, and simmer to smooth out. Add Tabasco or mustard if desired.

CURRY -- Sauté minced onion in clarified butter, add curry powder, stir well and add to basic white sauce. Vary intensity with type or quantity of curry and add red pepper or Tabasco for more heat.

DIABLE -- Add sautéed scallions or shallots to basic brown sauce and season with pepper, hot mustard, Tabasco and lemon juice. Simmer and adjust seasonings.

EGG SAUCE -- Add chopped hard-boiled eggs to basic white.

FLAVORED BUTTERS -- Thoroughly mix softened butter with dill weed or seed, tarragon, minced garlic rosemary, caraway seed, chile powder or grated orange or lemon zest.

GARLIC PASTE -- Separate many heads of garlic into cloves, simmer, unpeeled, in salted water until very soft, then drain and run through a food mill to separate the skins. Add salt and a little oil and mix.

HOLLANDAISE -- Whisk 3 egg yolks and a little (1T) lemon juice over low heat until eggs have thickened. Season with salt and cayenne. Gradually eight a cut up stick of butter , stirring constantly until thoroughly absorbed.

LEMON BUTTER (Beurre Meuniere) Add more lemon juice and chopped parsley to brown butter.

MADEIRA BROWN -- Season brown sauce with Madeira.

MALTAISE -- Add orange juice and grated orange zest to hollandaise.

MORNAY -- Add grated Parmesan cheese and butter to basic white sauce, a little at a time. Simmer.

MUSHROOM BROWN -- Add chopped mushrooms that have been sautéed to a paste in butter to Madeira brown sauce.

MUSTARD -- Add prepared mustard to basic white sauce and simmer a bit.

PARSLEY --Add chopped parsley to basic white sauce.

VELOUTE -- Substitute fish, vegetable, veal or chicken stock for the milk in basic white sauce.

WHITE WINE SAUCE -- Use a mixture of stock and white wine instead of milk in a basic white sauce. When it has thickened, gradually add heavy cream blended with egg yolks and cook gently until thickened again. (When combining, add a little of the white sauce to the eggs and cream, stir and then add it all back to the white sauce.)