Sushi commonly consists of a bite-size piece of fresh raw fish pressed into a ball of vinegared rice. However, for those who have never developed a taste for it, the raw fish can be omitted and fresh vegetables, meats and cooked fish can be used. Plenty of fresh ginger root slices, soy sauce and wasabi (Japanese green horseradish) should be served with the sushi, whatever the choice of wraps or fillings.

PREPARING AND SERVING -- The traditional wrap is a sheet of nori seaweed. Cut sheets in half lengthwise and spread with rice (cook, then mix with a scant amount of vinegar, salt and sugar), before adding other ingredients. Some recipes call for a sheet of temaki katsuo (dried shaved bonito) on top of the rice, before laying on other ingredients; this adds a stronger fish flavor to the sushi. When filled, roll up tightly in bamboo mat and slice into 6 rounds. With practice, you can form triangular and rectangular shapes for different presentations. Bamboo leaves are used as mats for finished sushi rolls; their natural sterilizing effect keeps the surface of the raw fish free of bacterial growth.

NORI (CALIFORNIA) ROLL IDEAS: -- Place Japanese cucumber, daikon radish or zucchini slices in center of rice and roll up the nori. -- Use avocado, cucumber and ginger slices with crabmeat. -- Place smoked salmon, sliced avocado and cucumber sticks at one end and roll up. -- Spread drained can of salmon between lengths of Japanese cucumber on one end of temaki katsuo sheet (on top of rice), sprinkle with parsley, sesame seeds and salt, and roll up. If desired, eliminate the nori sheet and use plastic wrap under the rice, roll up with bamboo mat then remove mat, unwrap plastic, sprinkle rice with plenty of parsley and reshape with plastic wrap, if necessary, before cutting. -- Mix can of drained tuna with mayonnaise and place it and cooked spinach on rice. Or use tuna with avocado slices. -- Place temaki katsuo sheet in center of rice on nori sheet and top with cooked spinach and drained sardines. Roll up and slice. -- On rice, lay lengths of cooked spinach next to slices of ham and canned pineapple. -- Use slices of one of the marinated tofus available at stores with mushrooms and sprouts. --Try prepared, cooked fish sticks and tartar sauce.

OMELET ROLL IDEAS: -- Cut a thick omelet into 1/4 inch strips and place these along with pieces of white fish fillets that have been grilled with teriyaki sauce in center of rice. -- Use a thin omelet for a wrap. Lay omelet on top of plastic wrap (on top of bamboo mat). Spread rice on top and then lay lengths of cooked asparagus, pickles and flaked corned beef in center before rolling. -- Lay lengths of sirloin cooked in teriyaki sauce with daikon strips over rice; sprinkle with sesame seeds and roll up omelet. Or fill with ham and pineapple or ham and cheese, add lettuce if desired. Using temaki katsuo sheets: -- Spread rice on sheet and top with matchstick pieces of carrot, halves of thin, steamed asparagus, sprinkle with sesame seeds and roll up like a cone. - Use sliced mushrooms, Japanese cucumbers and pickled plum paste. -- Use caviar, chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped onion. --Use shrimp, avocado and cucumber. --Use smoked salmon, sliced onion and avocado.

RAW FISH SUSHI -- Many types and cuts of fish may be used (tuna, flounder, scallops, eel, etc.). Cut small slices of fish, dip hands into vinegared water and form ovals of cooked rice then lay fish, with small dab of wasabi in center, on rice ball. Press and shape so fish wraps around rice. Garnish with ginger and/or lemon slices and chopped green onion. If desired, the rolls can be wrapped in or bound with strips of nori seaweed.

SMOKED SALMON SUSHI -- In casserole dish, lay lemon slices on bottom, top with pieces of smoked salmon then a layer of rice, then add sheets of temaki katsuo sheets (dried shaved bonito) and a layer of cucumber slices. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, cover with more rice, then plastic wrap and apply a weight to pack everything together. Refrigerate at least half an hour. Upend, unmold and serve with capers as garnish.